How do you improve on
perfection? Combine a lot of small pieces of it into one big piece
of it, and you have the Wonderland Trail. This is a classic case of
the whole being greater than the sum of its parts. The only way to make
this better would be to have fewer people do it, but that is a bit counter
productive. If you're reading this you're probably thinking of doing
or have done the Wonderland. It is an unforgettable experience. For
the long distance footslogger, such as PCT thru-hikers, the mileage is a
bit low, and I would not recommend your normal 25 mile hiking days for this
one. Not only would that be a grueling pace in these mountains, but
you would miss an awful lot of the experience if you shortened the normal
9-12 day trip for a 4 day'er. There are many guidebooks that deal well
with the Wonderland Trail so I am not going to offer a rewrite. I would
like to give my impressions rather than a step by step guide. I would
recommend The Mountaineers series of guidebooks.
Most guidebooks describe The Wonderland Trail
in a clockwise direction starting at Longmire. However that is by no
means the only way. Any place the trail
crosses the road is a good place to start and no direction offers significant
advantages. Either way you hike you will travel the same miles: 93,
and climb the same elevation totaling more than 20,000 feet. There is very
little level walking on this trail. The trail in its entirety would
be considered by most guides to be of moderate difficulty, but there are
stretches of the trail that are much more strenuous. Those areas I consider
to be strenuous will be noted. There are
also alternatives to the standard route that will be mentioned. Permits
are another matter. The Wonderland is a very popular trail and most
years the hiking season is short. Reservations are accepted beginning April
1 of each year for the season's hikers, so register early and have alternate
dates ready.
As a footnote to this information, please note
my use of the name Takhoma. Until Captain George Vancouver sailed
into Puget Sound in 1792, the Native Peoples of the Puget lowlands had names
for all the mountains Vancouver named after English Admiralty. I know
there is controversy over the name Takhoma and whether Rainier was ever called
Takhoma by natives. There is a great deal of evidence on both sides.
No matter, this is my story. I like Takhoma, Takhoma it is.
Other names of interest:
Koma Kulshan Mount Baker
Klickitat
Mount Adams
Wy’East
Mount Hood
Loo-Wit
Mount Saint Helens
For more information about Mount Rainier and other
mountains in the Pacific Northwest click: Volcano Information
PROLOGUE:
For this journey we begin at Ipsut Creek Camp.
There are many reasons people would give as to
why they would undertake to encircle Mount Rainier (Takhoma) on foot.
I suppose mine would fall somewhere among the standards. For years
I thought I was the only one in the world who loved Mount Rainier as I do.
I certainly was the only one in my family. My family made two trips
to Mount Rainier when I was a child. We had a family reunion once and
took friends from California once. I was six years old at the time.
The reason I say I was the only one, is because it was ten years before I
went back. But as soon as I learned to drive, I took my high school
sweetheart for a day trip to rediscover my childhood obsession, and to see
if I could convince her to love the Mountain as I. It must have worked;
we have been married for twenty-nine years.
DAY ONE
The trail up Ipsut Pass is no patsy, especially
with a fully loaded pack. One of the things I have to remember to bring
next time is: 1. less stuff, and 2. ibuprofen, (called "vitamin i" by distance
hikers). I used to tell the kids when we were preparing for a backpack
trip that if your pack weighs more than 30 pounds it is at least five pounds
too heavy. Mine must be closer to sixty, and I have to figure out a way,
besides losing fifty pounds, to lighten up the load. I think the new arch
supports are helping. I remember one time on this trail not having
exactly cooperative weather. It wasn’t raining, really. There
was this heavy blowing mist that dampened everything, including me.
The foliage along the trail was as wet as it would have been in a downpour
and brushing past I was gaining weight with every step. On the final
approach to the pass there was an overhanging cliff. That was impressive
enough by itself. But this cliff also happened to be a waterfall,
and the trail was its target. Even though it was my first day on the
trail I probably needed a shower anyway. Once I gained the pass, the
overhanging trees were raking more moisture out of the air and raining it
upon the trail. It looked just like a heavy rainstorm.
Mowich Lake is the first destination on the Wonderland but not a place for the wilderness lover to
camp. On nice days the place swarms with cars, people, and pets.
It takes a while to get there but it is all downhill to the Mowich River
camp. The camp resides far from the crowds way down in the bottom of
dark, heavily forested, Mowich River Canyon. That’s a much nicer (read
quieter), camp.
Moderate trail day beginning with a strenuous
climb over Ipsut Pass.
DAY TWO
There are places on Takhoma that just require
an extended stay. A hike on the Wonderland Trail can be accomplished
in two or three days if you wish to just say you did it. But if you
want to experience the trail you really need to take your time. It
would be very easy for this hike to take three weeks. Most folks do
it in 9-12 days. I don’t mind hiking fast on occasion but camping fast
is not my style.
Anyway, back to those places requiring an extended stay:
Sunset Park is such a place. After six miles of hiking through deep
forest the trail emerges into a lovely basin containing the Golden Lakes.
The only real success I ever had at fishing in the park was back in about
1980 in the largest of the lakes. The area is enchanting. It features
flowers in season, a constant view of the Great Mountain, and a close up
stroll through a seventy year-old burn now known as the Silver Forest.
It is hard to believe that fire could cause such a thing of beauty but there
it is. An upward sweeping ridge to the left invites the explorer onto a low
shoulder of Takhoma called The Colonnade. Walking the ridge
is easy enough but the cliff edge is crumbling basalt. Be careful.
The view from the upper end of the ridge is very well worth the effort.
Back in the days before the Westside Road was
closed by flooding this area received many more visits. Because of
its present remoteness, there are fewer visitors and thus, a better than
average chance of seeing truly wild animals. I hope the Park Service
never reopens the Westside Road.
The name, "Sunset Park" suggests that this might
be a good place to watch the sunset. Now there is an understatement
if I ever made one. Breathtaking! And no amount of words would adequately
describe it so you’ll just have to see it for yourself. But stay until
well after dark. The lights of the cities below will remind you of
the reason you’re here and not there.
Initial strenuous climb followed
by up and down ridge walking, overall moderate.
DAY THREE
Sooner or later the up and down habit of this
trail will hit home. It usually takes about three days for it to really
sink in. But on this morning you will be treated to an easy stroll
down through the Silver Forest to North Puyallup. It is five miles but
gently graded and all downhill. But that all ends at North Puyallup
and the laborious climb up endless switchbacks toward Klapatche Park vanquishes
all hopes that the trail has magically reformed. To gather energy for
the coming climb, take a breather at the five mile mark to wonder at the
hanging glaciers and Tokaloo Rock. The Hanging Glaciers are an oddity
of the mountain landscape. Here the glaciers of the North Puyallup
cling to the cliff face after their tumble from the icy heights. The
setting autumn sun illuminating the glaciers in a golden glow is a drama
to be savored. With that in mind, an evening spent at the North Puyallup
Camp is highly recommended if the weather is cooperative.
In this wilderness there is one available mode
of travel: hiking. Gazing up the timbered ridge above North Puyallup
can be a bit intimidating when that realization hits. It almost appears
to be a cliff face, and were it not for the heavy forest growing there it
would seem impossible for trees to grow on a slope of such extreme incline.
Yet there it is, and there also is the trail, in short order disappearing
up into the forest. So realizing you have only one choice you begin.
Ahhh, the joys of hiking!
Takhoma’s meadows each have distinct personalities.
The basic differences are size, shape, layout, and view. The flowers
and shrubs, trees, animals, are pretty much the same no matter which side
of the mountain you are on. So how is it they have personality?
You’ll never see it if you’re a speed hiker. The westside meadows are a
bit more lush and green than the others. The obvious reason is the heavier
rainfall. While it is beautifully well watered, the wetter climate
also equates to more bugs. Bugs can be maddening during a heavy hatch, but
they are a minor inconvenience in the grand scheme. One day I will
invent a foolproof bug-proof system that requires no messy insect repellents
and keeps the bugs at least fifteen feet away. Soon after that I will
retire to a life of product testing. By the way, those little battery-operated
mosquito repellents don’t work. Don’t waste your money. The
westside meadows’ elevation compared to the lands westward make for some
outstanding views too. But the westside has many features other than
views. There are some lovely waterfalls there as well. One of
those is reached by a branch trail from Klapatche Park down the ridge to
the north, Denman Falls. The relatively small meadows of Klapatche
and St. Andrews Parks offer flower fields and later in the season, fabulous
fall colors. This is a lovely place to visit. Aurora Lake is
a lovely alpine tarn in which some folks take a swim. From St. Andrews,
the trail drops rapidly to the South Puyallup crossing and a lovely forest
camp.
Easy trail day if you stop at North
Puyallup. Strenuous climb to camp at St Andrews or South Puyallup.
Overall moderate.
DAY FOUR:
The day begins with a gentle hike up and over
Emerald Ridge, an aptly named rock outcrop of brilliant green color interspersed
with an amazing variety of wildflowers. Once fairly upon the ridge,
Takhoma is your constant companion to the left. Watch as the “look”
of the Great Mountain changes almost with every step. Marvel as high
upon the mountain, the enormous Sunset Amphitheater moves into view and dominates
the mountain skyline. Stand amazed as Pyramid Peak, a significant mountain
in itself, seems small and insignificant next to the massive bulk of Takhoma.
After dropping off Emerald Ridge the trail joins with the Tahoma Creek Trail
and climbs into Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground. Indian Henry’s was
named for a Nisqually Indian named Satulik. At least that was somewhat
close to the answer given when he was asked his name. Finding Henry
easier to pronounce than Satulik, settlers gave him the name and it appears
to have stuck. Henry was an interesting character who ended up wealthy
by comparison to other Indians. He found gold by hosting and guiding
early explorers, including the legendary James Longmire, and environmentalist
John Muir. The natural deduction would be that Henry did a good deal
of hunting on the southwest slopes of Takhoma. Deer, elk, and mountain
goat may now be found at Indian Henry’s Hunting Grounds. As if the
summer flowers are not enough, September brings an outburst of brilliant
color to Indian Henry’s. Early snowfall brings dramatic contrast to
warm sunshine and the reds and golds of the changing season. The tiny
patrol cabin is the most picturesque I have ever seen. At Mirror Lake,
see the view of Takhoma memorialized on the famous postage stamp photo by
Asahel Curtis. Many visits to Indian Henry’s should be in your future.
Camp for the night at Devil’s Dream, Pyramid Creek, or Paradise River.
Relatively easy trail day once again
depending on where you camp. Devil's Dream or Pyramid Creek Camps...easy.
Paradise River is about 5 miles more and 2000 feet higher, moderate.
DAY FIVE
After a short climb to the top of Rampart Ridge
descend to Longmire and civilization. This is a good re-supply point
with easy access to a café for a break from trail foods. Summer
days find Longmire flooded with many hundreds of people though and after
the relative solitude of the trail you probably will not want to linger.
From Longmire the trail swings upward along the Nisqually then the Paradise
Rivers. On the way you will pass Carter Falls, then a bit later, Narada
Falls. Take the time to absorb the beauty of this place. Once
you gain Paradise Meadows, you will be treated to the most classic view of
Takhoma. An oddity of perspective from Paradise is that the true summit,
Columbia Crest (14,410) appears to be lower than Point Success (14,153).
You may wish to take a side trip over to the Visitors Center at Paradise but
once again, the crowds are probably not the reason you are here. An
alternate side trip would be to climb Pinnacle Saddle, a worthy hike to awesome
views, in the opposite direction of Paradise. The views from anywhere
around Paradise are well worth any effort required to gain them. Paradise
is a day-hiker-auto-accessible part of the Park though and summer days will
find the place crawling with people and pets. After you have exhausted your
tolerance for the crowds, retire down Stevens Canyon to your next camp at
Maple Creek or Nickel Creek.
The trail down Stevens Canyon is all downhill
and relatively easy, but short on views once you leave the summit.
There are several lovely waterfalls, Martha Falls in particular, on the way,
with the best views from off the trail. The trail would be more pleasant
were it not for the constant roar from cars on the opposite side of the
canyon. I have done it so I am as guilty as the next guy, but the
constant honking of horns as cars pass through the tunnel will probably drive
you nearly mad. I have wished that the Park Service would move the
trail to the opposite side of the Tatoosh. Look at the map, maybe you’ll
agree.
From the roar of cars to the roar of rushing
water: no comparison. The camps at Maple and Nickel Creeks provide
the restful serenade of water for your stay there. This one is well
deserved. You will need the rest for a breathtaking day tomorrow.
Easy trail day with plenty of time for
exploring.
DAY SIX and SEVEN
Before you leave the camp area you really must
linger at Box Canyon. Yes I know there is a road and you are tired
of cars and crowds, but the Canyon is a dramatic example of erosion in action.
No vague theory here. It is well worth the visit and a bit of exploration.
Climb from the deep forest to a long ridge top. The trail isn’t steep
but it is a long climb. Today you will see wide flower meadows and
more waterfalls than you can count, and all the while you will be treated
to a superb view of the Grand Old Mountain. The views and meadows begin
soon after you emerge from the timber on the crest of Cowlitz Divide. Many folks consider the eastside their favorite part of
the park. How do you improve upon
perfection? Only time. The only way to ruin this trail is to hurry it and
the only way to improve it is to take more time to enjoy it. From
Cowlitz Divide to Indian Bar, from Indian Bar to Meany Crest and Summerland,
this place defies description. Let me say here that it must be experienced
to be believed. By all means, take at least two days to explore this
area, camping your first night at Indian Bar and the next at Summerland.
I know they are only about 5 miles apart but once you’re there you will understand
why. Probably the best opportunity you will have on the journey to
see a mountain goat is on this stretch. Any description that I would make
here would be insufficient to describe the magic of this place. One
would have to be a much better writer than I to do it justice. Yet
even if Hemingway were to describe these meadows the volumes would pale
by comparison to the genuine article. This is a place not only to
be visited, but to be savored, to be lived, perhaps even “endured” is descriptively
fitting. There is a part of me that loves the “hardship” of backcountry
travel. Anyone can enjoy such a place when the weather is fair and
the sun shines brightly, but Takhoma is equally famous for its ability to
manufacture harsh weather. While I would not want to encircle Takhoma
without a break from inclement weather, it would be in my opinion, a highly
enjoyable outing to “endure” a violent storm while cozily ensconced in a
trail shelter at Indian Bar or Summerland. What a place to be witness
to nature’s fury!
Moderate climb followed by up and down
ridge walking. From Indian Bar to Summerland crosses the highest pass
on the trail, Panhandle Gap. Strenuous, steep and sometimes hazardous ascent
and descent. Going beyond Indian Bar makes this moderate day 6 a strenuous
day.
DAY EIGHT
An easy trail day awaits you today. It
is about 5 miles mostly downhill to White River Camp, then a gentle 3-mile
climb to Yakima Park. Once again the tourists are thick around White
River and Sunrise so continue to the Berkeley Park Camp for the night.
But on the way take the time to enjoy the fabulous scenery. Today,
for the whole day, you will be accompanied by the largest glacier in the lower
48. Emmons Glacier extends from the summit of Takhoma nearly four miles
into the White River Valley. It is massive, in places nearly a thousand
feet thick. Do a little research on glaciers and you will see why it
is so impressive. Spend a little time near it and you will understand
the geological term, “living ice.” You will depart with greater admiration
for the experience, respect for the glacier, and maybe a bit of dread for
trespassing so close.
Perhaps today’s route will be up and over Burroughs
Mountain or Mount Fremont Lookout. Whatever side trips you take will
be very worthwhile. The high-dry “desert” of Burroughs Mountain is
very interesting. The east side of the park gets a lot less moisture
than the west side and nowhere is it more evident than here. Please
stay on the trail here though because even turning over a rock can expose
tiny roots, killing or at the very least, injuring the hardiest plant. At
this elevation (7000 ft +), above the protection of the thickest atmosphere,
the midsummer sun blazes on the windswept heights, sending temperatures into
the eighties and nineties, and sucking the moisture from the already parched
earth. It can be just as harsh the other way as well, with teperatures
dropping below freezing, howling winds and rain or snow...even in midsummer.
Merely walking off trail may damage this fragile ecosystem to the point that
it cannot survive the short growing season. To illustrate this point,
even the road to Yakima Park is open only from mid to late July to late September,
less than three months in a normal year. To the ferocious sunshine
add a nearly nightly freeze and it is not difficult to see why this area
is so desolate. Imagine a plant trying to germinate, take root, grow, flower,
and reproduce in such a place, and all in three months or less.
If you don’t feel like climbing high after the
ascent from White River, setup your camp at Berkeley, then continue sans
backpack on the trail to Grand Park and some of the most beautiful meadows
you will ever see. Just before the short climb to Grand Park there
is a small meadow where a profusion of lupine grows and the scent it leaves
on the wind is unbelievable. Enjoy! Grand Park is two miles long
and a mile wide. It slopes gently away from the mountain but is nearly
level, really unusual for these environs. Also be on the lookout for
a herd of elk, and as you near Lake Eleanor, bears.
Relatively easy trail day with a moderate
climb from White River to Yakima Park.
DAY NINE
After a restful night in Berkeley Park enjoy
the short climb back to the top of Skyscraper Pass and the long downhill
to Garda Falls. After you leave the pass, the day’s travels will be
largely through an old growth forest. It is a beautiful hike. During
the long descent you will be very happy, aching knees notwithstanding, that
you are trudging this direction. From near the falls you will be able
to view up close the snout of Winthrop Glacier. This is another impressive
mass if ice. But the rule of thumb is: if you don’t know what you’re
doing, keep off. Glacier travel is for those who have been thoroughly
trained in safe passage. From the falls, the trail sweeps gently upward to
the next camp at Mystic Lake. Even though there is a good bit of mileage
so far, you may have sufficient energy for exploring Moraine Park, Curtis
Ridge, or even a summit attempt on Old Desolate. At the foot of Old Desolate
there is a spring of clear, cold water that bubbles up from the ground and
forms a pool. I was there once after a very hot climb up from Carbon
River Camp, and finding the water irresistible, didn’t bother to filter.
I bet you are thinking I learned a hard lesson about giardia, right?
Well, I hate to disappoint but that didn’t happen. But I did have
a very unpleasant experience with the icy cold water. I had been huffing
and puffing all morning getting up the steep trail so by the time I arrived
at the spring my throat was pretty well parched and I was dehydrated.
Huffing and puffing will do that to you so remember to drink a lot of water
when you’re hiking, but I digress. After I filled my water bottle
I took a long draw, gulping water as fast as I could. The water tasted
wonderfully sweet for a couple drags, then it burned like lava. I don’t remember
anything, including habanero pepper, ever burning like that. I was
in pain for days afterward. I couldn’t even eat a banana without excruciating
pain, so I fasted. I don’t know what happened with the water and it
hasn’t happened since, but I can tell you that I am a whole lot more careful
drinking icy water after huffing and puffing my way up a trail. That’s
almost as much fun as a bout with giardia.
Easy trail day in spite of crossing
high Skyscraper Pass.
DAY TEN
Another easy trail day awaits! Or this
could be your last trail day. If you wish, you may cross Curtis Ridge then
take a leisurely downhill stroll all the way to Ipsut Creek camp, about
9 miles from Mystic Lake, and call it good. You would have completed
the Wonderland Trail and made a remarkable accomplishment at that.
However, if you have the time and energy, another glorious day of exploration
is ahead.
Whichever path you choose, one of the highlights
today will be a very close up encounter with the Carbon Glacier. The
Carbon rises on the north side of Takhoma at the base of massive Willis Wall.
Ice and snow falling from the summit ice cap down the three thousand foot
cliff accumulates to form the Carbon. The glacier then flows into
the valley below accumulating the characteristic black basaltic (carbon)
coating as it goes. It is a marvelous view from Lower Curtis Ridge
out over the glacier and beyond. I suggest taking the morning after
camp at Mystic to explore Lower Curtis as high as you wish to go, even all
the way to the Wall. Most of the glaciers on Takhoma have receded dramatically
in recent years. Some folks say it is due to global warming.
Some folks say that’s hogwash and the real reason is cyclical weather patterns
that will one day soon see the glaciers advancing. I don’t know either
way, but the Carbon Glacier does not seem to be receding at all. Perhaps
its location on Takhoma’s colder north side is what is preserving the glacier,
or some have surmised that the layer of black rock and grit insulates the
ice. Somehow I doubt that as it would seem that a black layer of grit,
however thick would not serve as insulation, but as a heater. I am
happy to be free of the argument though, and that I can report that the Carbon
lives.
And speaking of living, you will discover today
the meaning of the term: “living ice.” Mountaineers have referred to
active glaciers as “living ice” for many years. I am not an expert
in glaciology and that will become apparent in the next few lines. Active
glaciers “flow” like a river, just on a much slower schedule. On warm
days the Carbon may flow as much as a foot, or on some days, maybe only an
inch or two. It is this flow that gives the glacier its life.
To the casual observer the glacier appears unmoving. To really see
movement you almost need time lapse photography. The visitor centers
in the Park have displays that explain glacial flow and films done in time
lapse that are very interesting. In about six miles you will need
to make the choice to stay for another day or depart for civilization.
The trail splits. One branch continues down the Carbon River to Ipsut
Creek Camp and the point of beginning all those days ago. The other
branch makes a sharp turn to the left and begins an unrelenting climb back
into the high country. Of course, you may guess my recommendation.
There are two camps nearby to aid in your decision. Carbon River Camp
is a few steps away. Cataract Creek Camp is a couple miles up the
Seattle Park Trail. Unless you climbed really high on Lower Curtis,
you should have plenty of energy to climb to Cataract Creek. Come
on ya lazy bum, you’ve been going downhill all day. The reason I am
so insistent on the extra day is what awaits should you choose a day eleven.
Climb through the open timber to Cataract Creek and setup your camp just
one more time. Use the easy day today as a rest for a very long day
tomorrow and go to bed early. Trust me, it will be worth it.
Easy trail day. However, going the other
direction on this trail is a strenuous undertaking. The climb from
Carbon River Bridge to Moraine Park is rather energetic.
DAY ELEVEN
Start early. Today will be your most difficult
trail day. From your first step on the trail you will be climbing.
“Up, up, the long delirious, burning blue, I’ve topped the windswept heights
with easy grace.” Well, not quite easy I think. That line from the poem,
High Flight, just popped into my head as I thought of this trail. Elevation
is gained in a frightfully short time but the trail is not overly steep.
The scene unfolding before you will be more than adequate compensation for
your toils. A narrow cleft in the mountainside and a small waterfall
mark the lower entrance into magnificent Seattle Park. The trail stair-steps
up through the lower meadows into more and more commanding views. Your
reward is an occasional view of the Grand Mountain, framed by meadows of
surpassing beauty. What a lovely place this is! You will be quite
happy for this extra day. Soon enough the way will open wide into the
main meadow of Seattle Park. Surely this is a well tended garden!
Climb to the pass at the very top of the meadow, at 6400 feet of elevation.
The view is outstanding! On clear days you will see all the way north
to Mount Stuart in the Alpine Lakes, Glacier Peak, then to distant Mount
Baker near the Canadian Border, more than 150 miles away! Take the time
to walk out to the outcropping of rock directly north of the pass. That
is the best view in the house. The view up close is just as dramatic.
Spread before you will be the magnificent flower gardens of Spray, Mist,
and Seattle Parks. The hulk of Mount Pleasant, Knapsack Pass, and
Mother Mountain perfectly frame the soft meadows with rugged towers of basalt.
Turn one hundred eighty degrees to the south and view unobstructed the majestic
king of this entire domain, Old Takhoma himself. The smaller peaks
of Echo and Observation Rock invite the energetic climber to their summits,
towering more than two thousand feet over the meadows. To think: “All
this cost me was the toil of the ascent.” You will not feel cheated.
Continue on the trail through Spray Park.
The meadows will continue to inspire and awe you as you descend from the
pass. Spray Park is a broad series of meadows filled with endless delightful
places. There are tiny alpine tarns, remnants of winter snow pack, and
waterfalls everywhere. Take the time to explore. Soon enough the trail
enters the forest and begins a series of switchbacks descending into the
Mowich River Canyon. A branch trail on the left leads to magnificent
Spray Falls, a must see at only one quarter mile from the main trail.
The gently descending trail continues for two miles through the timber to
a trail junction where you will turn steeply upward to Mowich Lake.
On the way make sure you stop by Eagle Cliff for a dramatic view of Takhoma
and Mowich River Canyon. You will remember Mowich Lake as a somewhat overused
area from your first visit here ten days ago. It is remarkable that
it is as pristine as it is.
Now for some backtracking. Take the trail
to Ipsut Pass and descend over your bootprints to you vehicle at Ipsut Creek
Campground. If transportation can be arranged, have your party meet
you at Mowich to avoid the extra five miles of backtracking. No time
is wasted on the trail, but you will be tired after the march from Cataract
Creek with all the side trips and the thought of footing it back to Ipsut
Creek may even tempt you to finish tomorrow instead of today. If you
do so, camp at Eagle’s Roost rather than Mowich.
Long, tough trail day, but worth every
step and drop of sweat. Strenuous.
EPILOGUE
You’ve done it! Congratulations are in order.
You have walked more than one hundred miles, gained more than twenty thousand
feet in elevation, and have grown to know Takhoma in a rare way. Hopefully
you have had good weather for your entire trip, but more likely you have
had to brave wind and rain, perhaps even snow. The trail has been dusty,
muddy, slippery, and steep, all in its own time. You have traversed
every life zone in the Park, from deep forest to alpine and have hopefully
seen wild animals from tiny pika, marmot, bear and deer, to the magnificent
elk. The forest has shown you its every aspect from silver snags ravaged
by fire to the enormous thousand year-old timber in its decaying climax stage.
You’ve seen hemlocks and firs, cedars and maples, alders and aspens, a veritable
gallery of the western forest as it once was, and you have walked through
magnificent gardens of brilliant wildflowers, thousands of varieties, all
blooming according to an unknown timetable, each one surviving on the edge
of existence. It is a marvelous thing you have done. I sincerely
hope you have taken nothing but photographs, and left nothing but boot prints.
THIS PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE.
I AM STILL REWRITING AND ADDING MORE INFORMATION
